Thursday, April 28, 2022

AeroGarden Beginner's Cheat Sheet

 This is a very basic checklist of hints and tips geared specifically for people starting up an AeroGarden for the first time.  Many of the same things apply to all hydroponic units, of course, only a few are AG-specific.  And of course, even those of us who are more experienced can benefit from a reminder of the basics!


Before You Start

 

Garden Placement

  • You need to place your garden in a location you will be easily able to reach and harvest from it.  This includes access to the back!  Many gardeners have found lazy susans useful for smaller models.  
  • Gardens should not be placed near doors or windows that will be opened, nor near soil plants, especially ones that spend time outside or are new.  This significantly increases the risk of bugs finding your precious plants!
  • Temperature - Although most plants will do fine as long as you are yourself comfy, some plants will give better results with some temperature considerations:
    • Lettuce and similar greens like cool conditions.  If you have a basement that stays cool year round, this is a great place to grow lettuce, while the kitchen counter may be too warm and make your lettuce bolt quickly.
    • Tomatoes and peppers like things quite warm.  Planted in that same basement, they will germinate and grow very slowly.  Consider a small space heater if you keep your house under 70.

 

Planning Your Garden

  • Plants grow best if you stick to a single 'type' of plant (fruiting plants, lettuce/greens, herbs, or flowers) in each grow in a single garden.   I go into this in depth in AeroGarden Companion Planting.
  • Consider spacing.  Because AGs have a single grow deck regardless of what you plant, it has a maximum number of spots available.  But for large plants, you will get drastically better results leaving some of the spots empty, and cover with a spacer or other opaque covering to keep algae from growing in your tank.  General rule of thumb for large fruiting plants is 1 plant per 3 holes (this does not mean to plant something else in the other 2 holes!)
  • Consider staggering planting based on expected germination and early growth time.  For instance, if plant A has an expected germination of 5 days, and plant B has an expected germination of 20 days, wait 10-15 days after planting B before putting in the pod for A.  This is not necessary, but can help with some plants having leggy early growth.



Getting Started

 

Basics

  • Labels are not just there to tell you what the pod is.  They are important for inhibiting algae growth and should stay in place!  If growing your own pods, cover with replacement labels, reusable pod covers, or round stickers or tinfoil with a small hole for the plant to come through.
  • Cover with grow domes!   Other clear items like plastic shot glasses will work fine.  These help raise humidity and stabilize temperatures for germinating seeds and tender seedlings, letting them grow faster.  They can be removed once the plant clears the label, and definitely by the time they touch the dome.
  • Place larger plants in the back for easier harvesting.
  • Keep lights as low as possible until plants are nearly touching them.   Consider trimming fast growers over raising the lights if other plants are still very small.  Lights too far away will cause legginess.


Nutrients and Additives

  • AeroGarden brand nutrients are natural; they are mineral based.  Organic nutrients are not a good choice in small countertop hydroponic units. (See: Can I Use Organic Fertilizers in Hydroponics)
  • Amount of nutrients to use is based on water amount/tank size, not the number of plants.
  • CalMag can be useful for fruiting plants.  Some people always use them, some (like myself) wait to see if a particular plant needs it (lots of yellowing of leaves or blossom end rot on fruit).  You are more likely to need CalMag if you use distilled or RO water, while those who use tap often do not.
  • Hydrogen Peroxide is used by many people to help control algae and prevent or treat root rot.  It breaks down (in about 12-24 hours) into water and free oxygen, which is beneficial to your plants.  For 3% concentration (the most common strength), a dose is one Tbsp per gallon, so 1 tsp in a Sprout, 2 tsp in a Harvest, 1 Tbsp plus a few drops in a Bounty, and 2 Tbsp in a Farm bay.
  • Hydroguard is also frequently used to prevent algae and root rot.  It is a beneficial microbe; but as such, hydrogen peroxide will kill it off, as well.  Wait 24 hours after adding peroxide.

 

 

As Your Garden Grows 


Thinning

  • Fruiting Plants - thin to one plant per pod.  Consider planting fewer pods than you ultimately want, and transplant extras.
  • Lettuce/Greens - most leafy greens should be thinned to one (for wide growers) or two (for upright growers) plants per pod.  (Mizuna is so tall and thin you can leave up to 5 without causing much issue.)
  • Herbs - can generally be left to grow as many as sprout.  I tend to thin large herbs (basil, dill, etc.) down to no more than three, however.

 

Harvesting/Pruning

  • Don't be afraid of pruning, even quite early!  It actually makes them grow fuller, faster, and better.
  • Plants should never be allowed to grow outside the 'cone' of direct light.  Prune any errant branches/leaves.
  • If you are close to adding nutrients, prune/harvest first, as some plants can get bitter the first few days after new nutrients are added.
  • Prune no more than 1/3 of the plant at a given time, generally speaking. 
  • Harvesting/Pruning guides:
    • Pruning Herbs Overview - Spiral growers (parsley, cilantro, dill, etc.) trim in a spiral from the outside in, never cut the crown/growth node; branching growers (basil, thyme, oregano, marjoram, etc.), cut third node (leaving two) on each branching
    • Pruning Basil - Expansion on pruning branching growers
    • Harvesting Lettuce - Pick whole leaves from outside in, or, cut entire plant 1/3 down the plant, making sure not to cut the crown
    • Pruning Tomatoes - Remove enough leaves to keep all remaining leaves in the lights, but do not remove all of them.  Top if plant reaches maximum extension of grow light.  Do not remove suckers (on determinate varieties).
    • Pruning Peppers - Top once main stem splits into a Y; do not remove suckers/side branches.

 

 

Other Useful Points

  • Consider a fan.  I consider it basically a necessity for lettuce and other leafy greens, but all AG plants benefit from them.  (See: Benefits of a Fan in Hydroponics)
  • Many plants become bitter as they age or when/after they flower.  Once they have gone bitter, it's time to replace them.
  • Don't start new seeds with existing plants; they will grow poorly and be leggy if the light isn't all the way down.
  • Don't be afraid to ask for help!  There are many helpful FB communities for AeroGardens, such as AeroGarden Community (perfect for beginners), or my own group, AeroGarden Experimentation (geared for more advanced users).  
  • Welcome to your new addiction!  Go ahead and figure out where the next one(s) will go!  😉

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